In August 2004, I went back to Jerusalem to visit old friends and to see how four years of conflict had changed the most fascinating place in the world.  Of course, I found a lot to be depressed about.  Walking past places where bombings had taken place, and seeing the rapid construction of the separation wall are enough to make even the cheeriest person glum.  But, not all was doom and gloom.  Seeing my friends Elizabeth and Darwish again definitely made the trip worthwhile.  And I was able to spend more time in the amazing Church of the Holy Sepulchre as well as at the Western Wall.  The Dome of the Rock is closed to non-Muslims now, but I was able to see that spectacular building in 2000.

In any event, enjoy these photos, and be sure to check out more from around Israel and Palestine in my photo albums.

As always, if you have questions, comments, or want a better scan of any photo, please just email me.  erik@eriklove.com 

Here I am in the Old City, in front of the Western Wall and the Dome of the Rock.

The dome on the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, as seen from the roof.  We snuck up there.

The dome above Golgotha, what many Christians believe is the site of Jesus' crucifixion.

The shrine built around Golgotha, ownership of which is split between the Armenian and Greek Orthodox churches.

A beautiful fresco on the ceiling of the church, which is under constant renovation.

The atmosphere in the church is set by hundreds of candles seen everywhere, lit by pilgrims.

That's me in front of the rock thought by many Christians to have carried Jesus into his tomb.  More church photos in the Tour of Jerusalem.

One of my gracious hosts in Jerusalem, Darwish, an awesome guy I met in 2000.  Here we are in front of the new separation wall that slices through Palestinian East Jerusalem.  The wall is just minutes from Darwish's house on the Mount of Olives.

Another of my gracious hosts in Jerusalem, Elizabeth, who studied with me four years ago.  She is simply awesome, working at a NGO dedicated to peace.  She's also famous in Jerusalem and an expert tour guide.